Sailing to Terre-de-Haut: A French Caribbean Gem, Golf Carts & Glorious Cheese

Sailing to Terre-de-Haut: A French Caribbean Gem, Golf Carts & Glorious Cheese.

Darling readers, gather ‘round. This is a tale of early mornings, mooring ball mayhem, and my deeply emotional relationship with French cheese. Yes, it’s time to tell you about our sailing adventure to Terre-de-Haut — the heart-shaped jewel of Les Saintes, a picture-perfect archipelago just off Guadeloupe in the French Caribbean.

We had just waved goodbye to lush, misty Dominica and set off at the crack of dawn. Why, you ask? Not for sunrise selfies (though those were lovely) — no, no. We were on a mission. Word on the sailor street is that the mooring balls at Terre-de-Haut are rarer than a polite dinghy driver at happy hour. Charter boats apparently duel at dawn for these things. So naturally, we wanted to beat the rush.

The Mooring Ball Ballet

We arrived around 10 AM — prime turnover time. The early charters had fled, and the midday mob hadn’t yet descended. Perfect.

Spotting a lonely, beautiful ball up ahead, we approached… when suddenly, out of literally nowhere, a charter boat zoomed in like it was auditioning for Fast & the Furious: Caribbean Drift and snatched the ball from under our nose.

Charming. Really. But instead of cursing, I simply muttered, “Karma,” with my best Daenerys Targaryen smirk.

As fate would have it, we did another circle and were hailed by a kind crew already prepping to leave: “You looking for a mooring? We’re just heading out — it’s yours.” Oh, sweet sailing angels.

Now, not all mooring balls are created equal. This one, for example, was a complete diva. I (Dee) struggled to thread the line through, then tried to get the second one while inventing an entirely new language of frustrated noises. Thankfully, our lovely boat neighbour lent a hand. If not, Ian might have received the look. You know the one.

First Impressions of Terre-de-Haut

Once secure, we headed ashore for the essentials: check-in, croissants, and cheese. Because yes — Terre-de-Haut is a French overseas territory, and the moment you step off the dinghy, you’re practically in Provence. But with palm trees and iguanas. Bliss.

We spotted familiar faces — a couple we’d met (accidentally hijacked, really) on a tour back in Dominica. Naturally, we messaged them and arranged to meet up the next day.

Golf Carts, Forts, and Flaky Pastry Dreams

Here’s a tip for any Les Saintes travel guide: rent a golf cart. Honestly, it’s the best way to explore Terre-de-Haut Island — a rolling, hilly paradise with just enough French charm to make you want to move in forever.

We zipped from beach to beach, visited the historic Fort Napoléon (the views, darling!), and stopped for an absolutely divine late lunch/early dinner at Ti Kaz’la. French-Caribbean cuisine, sea breeze, and a glass of something cold? Say no more.

Sailing Friends & Sunset Toasts

That evening, the anchorage turned into a floating reunion. with Infinity, Galatea of June, and Portless all arrived, our extended sailing family showing up like stars in the final act of a feel-good rom-com.

With all of us Our Velocity, Infinity, Galatea of June, and Portless and us Sturdeee. We found a great place where we shared drinks, swapped stories, and laughed over past misadventures. There’s something so magical about meeting up with your mates across islands. One day you’re having sundowners in Dominica, and the next you’re clinking glasses under the stars in Terre-de-Haut.

Why You Should Visit Terre-de-Haut (Trust Me, Darling)

If you’re sailing to Guadeloupe or simply visiting the French Caribbean, don’t skip this island. Terre-de-Haut is that kind of place you arrive at thinking, “We’ll stay a night” — and five cheese-laden baguettes later, you’re wondering how to apply for residency.

Just a short ferry ride from the mainland, it’s the hidden gem of Les Saintes — with cobbled streets, vibrant houses, top-tier restaurants, and views that practically demand a long, dramatic sigh.

Disclosure/disclaimer: Hey there! Links on here contain affiliates. When you buy through one of our links, we will receive a small commission. (Every little bit helps) This is at no cost to you. So thank you for supporting us and our odyssey