Sailing to Dominica – Rainforests, Rum, and a Bit of Drama on the High Sea

Sailing to Dominica – Rainforests, Rum, and a Bit of Drama on the High Sea.

So, darlings, the time had come to raise the anchor, wave goodbye to buttery croissants and baguettes (yes, I was emotionally attached), and set sail for Dominica — a lush, volcanic jewel of an island just waiting to greet us with open arms, misty rainforests, and a bit more rainfall than strictly necessary.

Now, for those unfamiliar, Dominica is basically the secret love child of Jurassic Park and a spa retreat. It boasts natural hot springs, tropical rainforests, the spectacular Boiling Lake, and cascading Trafalgar Falls, all nestled within Morne Trois Pitons National Park. The capital, Roseau, is a sweet chaos of colourful timber houses and botanical gardens. In short: heaven, but with more humidity.

Mayday, Mayday — Not the Kind of Message You Want Over Coffee

We were all prepped for a lovely sail when, about two hours head of us, our friends on Moose (their boat, not an actual moose… although wouldn’t that be fun?) had left the anchorage area ahead of us, while having coffee I flicked on the radio up at the helm. And I kid you not, the first thing I hear is:

“Please confirm… your name is Moose… something something… de-masted…”

Excuse me, what now?

I flew down the stairs, heart doing backflips, yelled for Ian, grabbed the main radio, continued to listen while messaging Moose at lightning speed:
“Please tell me you’re okay!”

Ian tuned in and said — Moose was relaying a mayday. They were fine — thank goodness — but another boat, a friend from our ARC sailing circle, had been de-masted. Their mast? Gone. Snapped. Just like that.

As it turns out, it was a couple we’d met back in Las Palmas, part of the ARC (not ARC+), friends of ours from our pontoon in Las Palmas, (we made a lot of friends on that pontoon while preparing for the Atlantic crossing), they where now motor their poor, mast-less boat toward Dominica — same anchorage we were heading to. Moose, absolute legends that they are, had diverted course to offer help, and support while they motor sailed towards Dominica

When I heard the full story from moose, my first thought was: “There’s not much we can do to change the situation… but we can feed hurting sailors.”

So, I (Dee) messaged them: “Moose has informed me what has happened, We’re here in the same anchorage as you two and we can see you guys, we’re here when and if you need us. I can’t fix masts… but I can cook.”

They were exhausted, understandably, and needed a moment to sit, breathe, and let it all sink in. We agreed to catch up the next day.

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Waterfalls, Caves, and Accidental Tour Hijacking

Next morning, after checking in (easy, breezy, borderline efficient), we asked our boat boy about tours while he’s taking us back to our boat. Lo and behold, one was leaving in 30 minutes. It had everything: hiking, waterfalls, lunch with a view, and a bit of mystery.

So we jumped in. The car already had four sailors in it. We apologised for the hijack, but they laughed, welcomed us aboard, and off we went.

Let me tell you: hiking in the rain, getting sucked through a cave (highly recommended), swimming in rivers, and finishing the day with a hot local lunch while drenched to the bone — it was utterly magical. A wild, wet, wonderful Dominica sailing adventure.

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And new friends were made, obviously. Nothing bonds people like cave swims and soggy trainers.

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Comfort Food for Wounded Sailors

That evening, we finally caught up with our de-masted friends. We greeted them with big hugs, homemade food, and — let’s be honest — some fairly strong drinks.

They told us the full tale: what happened, what they did (cut the rig themselves, heroes), and what’s next. But what truly hit them in the feels was this:

“Just seeing familiar faces… having home-cooked food… it really lifted their spirits.”

Sailing can be wild and unpredictable, but this moment? This was the heart of it. This is what makes the sailing community so bloody wonderful — we show up for another.

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Herbal Soda and Hidden Gems

Next day, Infinity arrived and we all reunited over one of those “only locals know about it” spots. The restaurant? It looked like a takeaway. The food? Phenomenal. The owner even made his own soda.

Now, being a curious little thing, I read the ingredients. Final line?

“Herbal infusion.”

Say what?

Let’s just say… I slept like a baby that night. No back pain. No tossing and turning. Just me, a pillow, and what I can only assume was the potion of dreams.

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Farewell, Rainy Beauty

The next morning, we said goodbye to our friends (a little misty-eyed), lifted the anchor, and pointed the bow toward Portsmouth — another part of Dominica’s northern coast. The sail was smooth, the snorkelling was top-notch, and the sundowners? Chef’s kiss.

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After a few more beach strolls and a few more plates of whatever the locals were eating (always the best plan), it was finally time to say goodbye to this wild, rainy, soul-refreshing island and head toward our next destination: an off-the-beaten-path island near Guadeloupe.

But Dominica? You’ve officially stolen a bit of our salty little hearts.

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