Antigua & Barbuda Lobsters and a Hint of Madness (Darling, You’ll Love It)

After what can only be described as a slightly dramatic few days — think dragging anchors, mysterious leaks, and more buckets than a toddler’s beach party — we finally dried out and decided to treat ourselves to something luxurious: marina life in Jolly Harbour, Antigua. Yes, darling, we plugged in, powered up, and prepared for the arrival of our lovely guests, Kelley and Jamie.

They arrived bright-eyed and full of adventure (give it 48 hours, I thought), and with a rental car in hand, we zoomed off to restock on food, drinks, and just enough rosé to fuel a small flotilla. After a sun-soaked beach stop, we headed back to the boat to get them settled in, which in sailing terms means explaining where the loo pump is and why you must never, ever, touch that one mysterious switch.

Next day? Off to The deep bay, a little slice of heaven with a crumbly old English fort to hike up to, and a beach that practically insists you have your “sundowners” barefoot in the sand. (And who am I to argue?)

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But there’s never enough time when friends visit and so much to see, soooo naturally, we set sail at dawn toward Barbuda, home of pink sand, turquoise water, and the most unnervingly close encounter with a ferry I’ve ever had. Picture this: autopilot ferry, oblivious captain, us waving like lunatics, and fishing lines sacrificed in the chaos. We lived to tell the tale — and tell it dramatically, obviously.

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Once safely anchored off Diana Beach, we were rewarded with a proper Caribbean treat: lobster night at Enoch’s Lobster And I can confirm, hand on heart (and slightly butter-covered fingers), it was the best lobster I’ve had in the Caribbean. And his rum punch? Let’s just say it was strong enough to make you fluent in French Creole by dessert.

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Morning arrived far too soon, and after a quick snorkel, where I met my first conch (surprisingly speedy for something shaped like a fancy doorstop). We took up anchor and made our way to Antigua and stopped at Green Island. The snorkeling there? Glorious. The lunch at The Reef Restaurant? Even better. Kelley heroically demolished a dessert “for two” all on her own, an achievement I’ll forever respect.

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After a few blissful nights under the stars, we sailed into Nelson’s Dockyard Marina, one of Antigua’s most iconic spots and a must-see for any sailor or history lover. The Dockyard was once the Royal Navy’s Caribbean base, and today it’s all stone arches, elegant yachts, and the occasional party that spirals delightfully out of hand. We were invited to a birthday celebration at Boom Restaurant, and let’s just say — two nights later, we were all still recovering.

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Just as we started to feel civilized again, our friends Kelly and Collin arrived from the UK (yes, we now had two Kelleyson board — chaos, confusion, and comedy all rolled into one). After a gentle wander through Nelson’s Dockyard and a well-earned brunch, we took a dinghy ride to Galleon Beach, where we found ourselves in the most wonderful place — the Academy of Rum.

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Now, I don’t like to brag (much), but I made a rather excellent bottle of rum. Fruity, smooth, and utterly drinkable. Let’s just say, should acting ever fail me, rum blending could be my future calling.

And then, the grand finale — dinner at Catherine’s Café in Falmouth Harbour for Kelly and Collin’s 30th anniversary. The setting was divine, the music enchanting, and the prices… well, let’s call them “optimistic.” But the laughter, the friendship, and the memories were worth every penny.

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As we waved goodbye to Kelley and Jamie (off to enjoy a few quiet nights on land before flying home), I couldn’t help but feel that familiar tug — the bittersweet rhythm of boat life. Friends come, adventures unfold, and before you know it, the anchor’s up and the horizon’s calling again.

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